Penance

Street lights on the outskirts of Leon, Espana
Street lights on the outskirts of Leon, Espana

We’re thinking it is a good thing that our news sources have been limited. Our preferred news feed, Google News, doesn’t even work here because the Spanish newspapers have successfully sued to keep their content on their own sites. We stopped our newspaper delivery when we left Rochester so now we leaf through the Spanish newspapers in the coffee shops. They don’t follow the boy who would be king as closely and the world seems a little more stable.

We set the alarm for seven, an hour and a half before sunrise, so we were out on the streets of Leon in the dark looking for El Camino markers, the yellow arrows. It was a clumsy start but after three café con leche stops and some help from the locals we were out in the country.

We arrived in Villar de Mazarife in time for the menu del dia but the internet connection was was so weak we were unable to use our credit card. I tried to put a photo online and and it kept giving me error messages. The cord has almost been cut and I’m looking for the advantages. We wandered around town after dinner and found a building labeled “Casa Cultural” so we stuck our heads in. Men, all about our age, were sitting around tables in groups of four. They were playing cards and having a good time.

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Buena Suerte

Statue of dead Christ in Madrid church 2018
Statue of dead Christ in Madrid church 2018

“What if the physics of entropy was sliding between humans and objects through pure inertia?” The artist, Carlos Irijalba, uses this premiss as a springboard for his current show at Galeria MPA in Madrid. We popped in and out of a dozen small galleries on Calle Doctor Fouquet. This is our third time wandering the neighborhood behind the Reina Sofia and we were happy to see it has continued to blossom with a heavy dose of art.

We loved the Wim Wenders movie on the pope. And against all odds we’re still rooting for Francis. With all the walking we have been doing friends keep asking if we’ve seen Wenders’ “Paris Texas” And of course we have but it has been a long time. So it was no surprise that the movie on our train from Madrid to Leon was “Paris Texas!” Harry Dean Stanton’s dialog was dubbed and the subtitles were in Spanish so it was a different experience.

Our first stop in Madrid, as we stumbled around the old city waiting for check-in, was this small church. People were gathering for mass so we only had a few minutes to look around. I paid my respects to this statue of Christ (depicting a scene from the Passion) while Peggi studied a depiction of the Virgin on the side altar next door. El Camino, part 2, is laid out before us.

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You Are An Innovator

“Woman Artist, Nude, Standing” by Dorothea Tanning in Reina Sofia in Madrid
“Woman Artist, Nude, Standing” by Dorothea Tanning in Reina Sofia in Madrid

“You, the proletariat, the blacksmith of the new time, you forge time with forms. . . You are an innovator. We. . . rushed from a barricade toward the world of new transformation, light and non-objective one, because the great recreation of our undying spirit is coming.” Kazimir Malévich 1918

Dada seems to have made its first appearance in Russia where the Futurists’ influence was strong. The “Russian Dada” show at the Reina Sofia in Madrid featured Malévich as a bedrock and he stole the show.

Dada was a reaction to the propaganda and slaughter of World War I and Surrealism sprang from that. Dorothea Tanning was born in a small town in Illinois. She dropped out of school and turned to the collection of the Art Institute of Chicago for inspiration. She travelled to Paris to meet the surrealists but returned when World War II broke out. She married Max Ernst and they moved to Arizona. She lived to 102, Outlasting many art movements. “Behind the Door, Another Invisible Door,” a retrospect of her work fills the third floor here and it is a revelation.

Tanning refused to be labeled a “woman artist” saying, “one is given, the other is you.” Her “Woman Artist, Nude, Standing” (above) asserts feminine power as a creative force to be reckoned with. With nods to Goya and deKooning she presents herself armored in her own voluptuous flesh while wearing only a black mantilla with a red poppy.

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Entry Into Madrid

Madrid Metro exit at Puerto Del Sol.
Madrid Metro exit at Puerto Del Sol.

Does anyone fly to Madrid in the daytime? They must but we never have. We always leave near dinner time and the evening and night fly by as we go six time zones into the future. We arrive in early morning and always start with a café con leche in the airport café. A quick walk on the moving sidewalks takes us to the subway and with a few transfers we are coming up for air in the center of Madrid, la Puerta del Sol. I have photographed the dramatic view from the subway exit before but this time I photographed the stairs themselves, covered in an ad for Talavera.

Lack of sleep makes the first day especially dreamy, a mode that is especially suited to securing the local currency, swapping out our SIM cards for prepaid versions and buying a pocket knife, one with a corkscrew, a sacacorcho in Spanish. The last item we took care of on the sixth floor of Corte Ingles, an old fashioned department store similar to Sibley’s.

Back at our hotel in the Chueca district we tried to find a soccer game, Atletica was playing, but the station’s broadcasting rights were too rich for our place. We decided to go out and walk around and stopped for some Pimientos de Padron. Sometimes there is a hot one in the bunch but this was the hottest batch we have ever had. This promises to be a good trip.

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Half Naked

Ray Turner paintings in Chelsea, NYC 2018
Ray Turner paintings in Chelsea, NYC 2018

“Turner presents a didactic deconstruction of the visual semantics behind recognizability of form through a parsing of the grey space of the half-formed, “half-naked” (the name of the show). Do you believe that gibberish? I like these Ray Turner paintings but I couldn’t possibly make it through the description that the Artman Gallery in Chelsea offered us. And rather than just letting us look at the paintings, the staff insisted on trying to engage us in conversation. We had no time for that, the galleries were closing and we still hadn’t made it to Hauser & Wirth.

Back at Duane’s we watched Cher videos on YouTube, her new versions of ABBA songs. Surprised how bad they were. We finished with Tammy Wynette’s. “Don’t Touch Me” and I woke up singing “Ass Magnet,” Sa Zu’s (Ken Frank) incredibly sticky dance hit.

On Saturday Duane offered us a choice of three walks, all loops from his apartment in Brooklyn. “Mother nature, quasi industrial or multi ethnic neighborhoods.” We chose the third and walked down Ocean Parkway, over to Coney Island Avenue and back to Church Avenue. Duane’s world, excellent!

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Leaf Peep Express

Leaf peeping train leaving Utica for the Adirondacks
Leaf peeping train leaving Utica for the Adirondacks

We’ve been watching a Spanish tv show on Netflix called “Ministerio Del Tiempo” where the characters are given assignments that take them back in time, usually for the purpose of ensuring history unfolds the way they feel it should. We are forever backing the show up because the Spanaids talk so fast, Peggi can only catch a bit of it and we can’t read the English sub-titles before they’re gone.

Looking out the window of our train car in Utica I had the sensation we were time traveling. Maybe next year we’ll ride this old train up to Pete and Shelley’s place.

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To Put Up

Jalepenos just before being picked from our garden 2018g
Jalepenos just before being picked from our garden 2018g

Peggi “put up” or canned six quarts of jalapeños on our last day in Rochester. We left some nice looking eggplants on the vine and emailed our neighbor, on whose property we have our garden, that she could help herself to them. We managed to can or eat a bumper crop worth of tomatoes and we gave the last to Kathy, who drove us to the train station. We’ve been eating kale in every dish we make and we expect to find some still when we return.

I checked the status of yesterday’s train and found that it arrived in Penn Station one minute late. That was encouraging. You need a bit of encouragement before getting on a train in this country. Today the train was a half hour late getting into Rochester and we stopped outside town to let another train pass us. In Utica the conductor announced that we had an engine problem and would not be able to travel at full speed to Albany. We texted Duane that we would be late getting in. In a few days we will be in Spain where the trains run like clockwork.

Picasso said he paints his forms as he thinks of them, not as he sees them. Not to diminish the act of recording what you see but to emphasis the act of creation. Presenting what you think you see, or more dramatically, what you want to see seems a more noble concern. In 2018 this is a reason to carry a sketchbook with you.

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Trump Calling

Shovel in the ground at Irondequoit Mall
Shovel in the ground at Irondequoit Mall

We were in Target trying to get a look at the new iPhone XS when everyone’s phones sounded an alert at once. Peggi found it kind of creepy. I was thinking how we were all connected in some new, magical way.

Outside a woman in a big black Suburban hit the curb behind us and then zipped around us to park. We were on foot and I was thinking how our yoga teacher got hit by a shopping cart which had been propelled by a car in the parking lot of Cosco. You have to walk defensively.

Target is the only thing left in Irondequoit Mall and walking across the vast empty parking lot is a surreal experience. The pavement is a cracked and littered with cigarette butts and tiny bits of of trash, mostly plastic. We are already here from the future doing a cursory, shallow archeological dig. I found this broken snow shovel and stuck it in ground at the end of the pavement.

We are only one Rochester walk away from Camino part two. I’m already thinking rocket fuel at Starbucks for that last loop from the house.

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Lunch Ladies

Lunch Ladies decorative squash at Aman's on East Ridge Road
Lunch Ladies decorative squash at Aman’s on East Ridge Road

It seems a little cruel that these decorative squash are called “Lunch Ladies.” I don’t make the rules, I just look at the signs.

Peggi made a couple of cherry pies the other day and brought one down to our neighbor, Sue, who just celebrated a big birthday. Today Sue brought a beautiful bouquet of flowers, all from her garden, up to us. We will never be even.

I swallowed an olive pit. I usually have a few olives with a boiled egg, toast and olive oil in the morning and I wasn’t quite awake. It felt like it was stuck in my esophagus but that may have just been the sensation. I’m hoping it doesn’t get stuck in some crevice of my intestines colon.

I bummed that we missed the one night premiere of the Joan Jett movie. We were playing in the cafe that night. Here is a song recorded at that gig.

Listen Margaret Explosion’s Alicia.

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