Deep Dives

City of Rochester aerial photo of Kodak and Genesee River
City of Rochester aerial photo of Kodak and Genesee River

There was a Whole Earth like moment when the promise of the internet first became apparent. Creative types could have a website with an address on the World Wide Web. I’m not sure what happened. Peggi might know. She’s been reading “Careless People.” Maybe we were doomed to scroll endlessly.

My favorite Rochester website is Gonechester. We think of our city as always having been the way it is. Do you recognize anything in the photo above other than Kodak Office building? Our city is continually reshaping itself. Geoffrey Zeiner’s posts uncover the rich past of our city. My grandparents both worked at local shoe factories. This history shaped us.

A Heckel Pat. Turn Shank advertising paperweight.

The Gonechester site pulls together sources to tell stories about people and places that once were part of Rochester, NY, but now are no longer with us. Photographs, newspaper articles, and primary documents are all included to paint a picture of these lost locations, and the people who lived and worked in them. If deep diving on a well researched website with dreamy photos is not your thing Geoffrey is giving a talk, entitled ”A Walk Through a Disappeared Downtown,” at the Chili Public Library, Thursday, June 12th, at 6:30 PM. He has a video about the History of Rochester’s Main Street Bridge.

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Do Not Disturb

“Ecstasy Club”by Margaret Explosion from 2024 release “Field Recordings”

We had fun putting this one together. The footage is about twenty years old, shot in our basement for a song called “Super Slinky” from our “Live Dive” cd. We never got around to doing that video but thought it would fit “Ecstasy Club,” a rambunctious song from our newest cd, “Field Recordings.” The kids, some of our nieces and nephews, are all grown now. Margaret Explosion is still here. We play Wednesday at the Little.

I had never seen the Bop Shop as crowded as it was yesterday. I asked Tom Kohn if it had ever been this crowded and he said it was for the grand opening. The occasion was a book release for “Richard Manual: His Life and Music, from the Hawks and Bob Dylan to The Band” by Stephen Lewis, a local boy. Tom’s wife, Jann, was the editor. Tom said the pages were on their kitchen table for a year and a half.

Karen Mahoney’s husband works behind the counter at the Bop Shop and Bob Mahoney was there for the event. They both told slightly different stories about John Gilmore repeatedly calling our friend, Brad, and not getting any answer, then going there, spotting his car, banging on the door and not reaching Brad. Worried, they called the cops. Four cars responded. To do a so-called “Welfare Check” they needed to call all the local hospitals. No one by named Fox had been admitted so they jimmied the back door. According to Kim, Brad was sitting in his chair with the headphones on, listening to Captain Beefheart. He had turned his phone off because he didn’t want to be disturbed. According to Bob, Brad was listening to Frank Zappa. I like Kim’s version better.

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Volume XXII Available Now

2 page spread from Paul Dodd "Brief History of the World" Volume XXII
2 page spread from “Brief History of the World” Volume XXII

The days are numbered for this long running project. I delivered newspapers for five years back when a kid could work without breaking the law. I loved the daily headlines (redundant today), the sensational photos, the cracker-jack reporting and opinionated columnists but most of all I like the pictures. Miraculously we still get daily delivery of the local paper and the NYT but I realize newspapers are a thing of the past.

2 page spread from Paul Dodd "Brief History of the World" Volume XXII
2 page spread from Paul Dodd “Brief History of the World” Volume XXII

For twenty five years or so I’ve cut pictures out. Not every day, sometimes weeks go by before I find myself staring at one long enough to think, “I’ll just cut it out. I keep them in a little box and when the box gets full I arrange them in pairs. Not all find a mate so they just stay in the box. I tape the pictures on three hole punched card stock and I’ve filled twenty three binders with the spreads – A “Brief History of the World.”

2 page spread from Paul Dodd "Brief History of the World" Volume XXII
2 page spread from Paul Dodd “Brief History of the World” Volume XXII

I have just posted “Brief History of the World” Volume XXII. CLICK HERE to download the free eBook.

This book is available here in the generic ePub format. On Mac the download should should open in your Books app. To read (ePub format) on a PC, you’ll need to use a third-party reader compatible with the ePub format. Popular options include Adobe Digital EditionsCalibre, or FB Reader. You can also use Microsoft Edge

I have a page on PopWars where 36 other “Artists Books” are available as free downloadable eBooks.

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Barking At The Dog

Touliouse-Lautrec "Touc, Seated on aTable" Hammer Museum
Touliouse-Lautrec “Touc, Seated on aTable” Hammer Museum

We were out early on Memorial Day, maybe 7:30, and there was hardly anyone in the park but the dog walkers. It was a gorgeous day as the few people we passed acknowledged. We walked along the beach and saw only one sailboat which seemed odd until we realized there was no wind. As we walked up Zoo Road a black car came up behind us, traveling too fast for the park but also too close to us. We saw the owner get out of the car. He had a dog, on a leash, thank god, and he headed up the road ahead of us. I looked at the sticker on his car, a blue American flag with the words, “Support Your Sheriff” below it.

We walk faster than most people, for now, so of course we caught up to him. We were about ten feet behind him when he started yelling, barking really, at his dog. “No! ” he shouted as he yanked the leash around the dog’s neck. The dog looked like a Rottweiler and I was thinking about turning around. There was an article in our paper yesterday about a pit bull who killed his owner.

As we got closer to the guy the dog looked our way again. I didn’t want to look at the owner. He scolded his dog for turning our way and said, “I’ll teach you military style” as he yanked the dog’s leash. We got ahead of them and his phone rang. We heard him telling someone he was in the park and “had to hang up before the dog destroys someone.”

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Mister Matisse

Henri Matisse “Bas Relief” 1909 - 1930 in MoMA Sculpture Garden New York City
Henri Matisse “Bas Relief” 1909 – 1930 in MoMA Sculpture Garden New York City

The sculpture garden on UCLA’s campus is one of the wonders of the world. I’m so happy Peggi’s sister took us over there when we were in LA. I posted a photo of these Matisse marvels while we were there and remarked how different the light made the sculptures look and feel. Now that I’m back home I called up the photo I took in New York to compare.

Henri Matisse “Bas Relief” 1909 - 1930 in UCLA Sculpture Garden in Los Angeles
Henri Matisse “Bas Relief” 1909 – 1930 in UCLA Sculpture Garden in Los Angeles
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Agritourism

Farm land in midwest as seen from airplane
Farm land in the Midwest as seen from airplane

I took this photo last month as we flew east into Chicago. It is a nice compliment to the photo I took of our garden in my last post. It also makes a good abstract. We put a second row of arugula in and weeded the spot where we will put the tomato plants on Tuesday. Unusually late but it has been unusually cool. Our garden is in our neighbors’ yard. It used to be their tennis court when they were younger. They also have a fish pond that a heron found this spring. They suspected as much because the fish have all been clustered in the center under a few plants, afraid to come out. Their suspicions were confirmed when they came out to pick up the mail and saw the heron standing in their pond.

The end of Hoffman was especially alive with bird activity today. Our Merlin app identified Red-winged Blackbird, Song Sparrow, Northern Flicker, American Robin, Eastern Wood-Pewee, Gray Catbird, Tufted Titmouse, American Goldfinch, Yellow Warbler, Carolina Wren and a Tennessee Warbler in less than a minute. The neighbors who live in the last house told us they had a pileated woodpecker crash into their window. It shattered the first of a double pane glass, temporarily knocked itself out but got up and flew away.

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“Climate Crud”

Peggi planting collards and Kale
Peggi planting collards and Kale
"The government will no longer track major sources of greenhouse gases, data that has been used to measure the scale and identify sources of the problem for the past 15 years. 

"We're not doing that climate change, you know, crud, any-more." Agriculture Secretary Brooke Rollins told Fox Business on May 8. 

By getting rid of data, the administration is trying to halt the national discussion about how to deal with global warming, said Daniel Swain, a climate scientist"

I copied that chunk from a recent article in the Democrat & Chronicle. Aren’t we lucky to still have a daily newspaper in Rochester? I’m not sure that we are. I had not heard the word “crud” since the Mad Magazine days.

Everybody’s complaining about all the rain we have had. Our garden loves it. We have a few varieties, in a few stages, of lettuce, arugula and spinach. I took this photo after picking two bags full and Peggi, at the other end of the garden, is putting in the collards and kale plants, that we started indoors, in the earth. We would normally have our tomatoes and peppers in by now but we still have a slight possibility of a frost so we’ll wait until Monday.

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Mystery

Page 21 of "Underground Designers Handbook" by Leo Dodd 1968
Page 21 of “Underground Designers Handbook” by Leo Dodd 1968

It is not exactly logical, “Mystery is that which gives meaning,” but it does free the mind.

Somewhere in the mid-sixties the nine of us piled into the family station wagon and drove south to Mt. Savior Monastery in Elmira. I assume my father had made some sort of arrangement before we stopped in, I was just going along for the ride and probably would rather have stayed home with my friends. I remember the grounds, the barn, the small church and I remember meeting Brother David. My father was greatly influenced by this mystic monk. This glimpse of monastic life was certainly mysterious to me. On the way home we would stopped at Annis Dairy for ice cream.

In his “Underground Designers Handbook,”Leo Dodd says he attended a lecture series by Brother David and was exposed to “the beauty and clarity of his thought, how common religious terms like awareness, encounter and commitment, in David’s hands, took on a special arrangement with stunning impact. Without this exposure, to how these terms interplay with God, man and mystery this handbook would not exist.”

Brother David Steindl-Rast is a Benedictine monk, author, and interfaith scholar best known for his teachings on gratefulness. He was born in Austria in 1926. He was greatly influenced by Daisetz Teitaro Suzuki’s book, “The Training of the Zen Buddhist Monk,” and the two protested the Viet Nam war together. 98 years old now, he is still a prominent voice bridging contemplative Christian traditions with Buddhism. He has a Ted Talk.

My father was 41 in 1968 when he created his “Underground Designers Handbook.” My parents were unhappy with the conservative tenants of Catholicism and along with a former priest and a small group of like-minded liberals they went about forming their own church, not a physical building but a community. In the formative stages the group would meet at our house and conversation mixed with cigarette smoke wafted upstairs to our bedrooms.

Page 45 of "Underground Designers Handbook" by Leo Dodd 1968
Page 45 of “Underground Designers Handbook” by Leo Dodd 1968

Leo’s artwork, in colored pencils and ink, is a joy to look at. Trained as a mechanical engineer he worked as a design engineer for Eastman Kodak. He was able to reduce concepts to graphic symbols. And if it got complicated he would create a matrix. He used to to say he couldn’t talk without a pencil. I don’t think he could think without one. He retired early but continued working as a consultant. I was lucky to have been on jobs with Leo while creating slideshows for high-tech companies under insane deadlines. This was fun for him. The concepts expressed in his Underground Designers Handbook remain mysterious to me but mystery is that which gives meaning.

Front cover of "Underground Designers Handbook" by Leo Dodd 1968
Front cover of “Underground Designers Handbook” by Leo Dodd 1968

CLICK HERE to download the free book.

Leo’s book is available here in the generic ePub format. On Mac the download should should open in your Books app. To read Apple Books (ePub format) on a PC, you’ll need to use a third-party reader compatible with the ePub format. Popular options include Adobe Digital EditionsCalibre, or FB Reader. You can also use Microsoft Edge

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Masterstroke

Wall in Hauser Wirth LA
Wall in Hauser Wirth LA

One hundred years ago the downtown Los Angeles space now occupied by Hauser Wirth was home to the Globe Grain and Milling Company. Before I learned the history I was guessing it was once a convent or monastery. There is an open air herb and vegetable garden in a central courtyard and a restaurant next to it. Some of the galleries are large and light filled. Others, like the space where David Hammons’ ‘Concerto in Black and Blue’ is installed, are completely dark.

Someone on Hauser Wirth’s staff had the foresight to preserve the chunk of industrial history (“ruin porn”) in the photo above. The blue with black stripe section on the right is part of a Mary Heilmann installation. And they added the plant, of course, but to recognize the beauty in the crumbling and long neglected chunk of wall was a masterstroke.

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What Is It All About?

Prom photo at The Getty in Los Angeles
Prom photo at The Getty in Los Angeles

I thought of Jason Wilder (and the stories he tells with his found photos) when I glommed onto a prom shoot at The Getty in LA.

I have the slimmed-down, free version of ChatGPT and I’ve been slowly incorporating it in my life for simple queries. As I prepared a new post here I asked ChatGPT, “What is www.popwars.com all about?” It came back with the following and now I’m wondering, do I put quotes around a ChatGPT return when I site it? Rather than asking ChatGPT I think I’ll ask my friend, Rich, an intellectual property expert.

“PopWars (www.popwars.com) is a personal blog and multimedia journal curated by artist and musician Paul Dodd, based in Rochester, New York. The site offers a rich tapestry of reflections on art, music, travel, and everyday life, blending personal anecdotes with cultural commentary.

Art & Photography: Paul Dodd shares his artistic endeavors, including paintings, collages, and photography. The blog features various art projects, such as the “Mex Mural Project” and “Subterranean Surrogates,” showcasing his creative process and exhibitions.

Music & Bands: A significant portion of PopWars is dedicated to music. Paul documents performances and recordings of his band, Margaret Explosion, an experimental jazz group known for its improvisational style. The site includes concert posters, music releases, and reflections on gigs. Additionally, there’s archival material on past bands like Personal Effects and Invisible Idiot, highlighting the local music scene’s evolution.

Blog & Observations: The blog entries are a blend of diary-like posts and cultural observations. Topics range from local events in Rochester to broader musings on art exhibitions, travel experiences, and societal trends. Paul’s writing often intertwines personal narratives with commentary on contemporary issues, providing a unique lens on everyday occurrences.

Family & Archives: PopWars also serves as a digital archive for family history. Paul has digitized and shared old family photographs, preserving memories and offering glimpses into the past. These archives provide context to his personal stories and artistic inspirations.

In essence, PopWars is a multifaceted platform that captures the intersections of personal history, artistic expression, and cultural discourse, all through the eyes of Paul Dodd.”

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I’m Done

Jen on beach with Margarett Explosion t-shirt
Jen on beach with Margarett Explosion t-shirt

Last night’s gig was noteworthy for a few reasons. It was sort of quiet (nearly impossible to compete with the gorgeous weather and Lilac Festival.) Cello player Melissa was unable to make it. Ken bought an acoustic bass on eBay and brought that instead of his double bass. Relatively new neighbors, on the street down below, were there. They told us our band reminded them of music they heard in Morocco. My brother, Tim, was there, a rare sighting. And other than the one big table where the Monacelli’s were holding court. the room seemed to turn over at the break. All new faces to play to. The band always sounds better on quiet nights. People asked for an encore but Jack, bass clarinetist, said, “I’m done.”

At the end of the night Jen (pictured above) came up to say hello. Back in town, she reminded us she used to work in the café twenty years ago. We went down a long rabbit hole with her talking about people who used to work behind the counter.

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Life After Messi

Coffee shop on Sunset Boulevard in LA
Coffee shop on Sunset Boulevard in LA

There is a rumor going around (I started it) that the new pope chose his name in honor of Leo Messi. Of course there were thirteen other popes named Leo and five of them are saints including Leo the Great (#1) who convinced Attila the Hun not to sack Rome. We are hoping he chose to follow Leo XIII and continue his support for social justice. It was not lost on my cousin who texted us the day he was nominated that he choose the name of her uncle, my father, who gave up on the idea that the church could reform in his lifetime. Pope Leo XIV also graduated from Villanova, my father’s alma mater.

When we were in Miami earlier this spring, visiting our nephew and his wife, we had dinner at their restaurant and our nephew sat down with us for a few minutes. We had heard that Messi had eaten at his restaurant and I couldn’t wait to ask where it was that Messi sat. Our nephew nodded to the seat right next to us.

Before El Clásico on Sunday the announcers were talking about how they couldn’t imagine how Barca could carry on when Messi left and then along comes Lamine Yamal. I know Barcelona was knocked out of the Champions League by Inter but they beat the pants off of Real Madrid and they are a pure joy to watch. Not just Yamal, Pedri and de Jong in the center, Raphinha and Lewandowski (when he’s fit) up front and Cubarsi, Kundi and Balde in the rear. There is plenty of life after Messi. We have a new pope. Fascism may be raising its head but I am still optimistic.

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Broken Dreams

Slow Dance by Margaret Explosion from 2024 release “Field Recordings”

We took an Uber from Peggi’s sister’s house to Ameba in LA. We walked Hollywood Boulevard when we got there and grabbed another ride somewhere on Sunset. I held my iPad Mini’s camera up against the window and sampled the vibe on the Sunset Strip. I never expected to get the crying woman. Seven songs from “Field Recordings,” our newest release, now have videos. Seven remain.

Margaret Explosion poster for May 14 2025 at Little Theatre Café
Margaret Explosion poster for May 14 2025 at Little Theatre Café

Margaret Explosion plays Wednesday night at the Little Theatre Café – 7-9pm.

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Re: Funky Neighbourhood In Honolulu?

Utility pole in Kaimuki neighborhood of Honolulu
Utility pole in Kaimuki neighborhood of Honolulu

I didn’t find this 14 year old link until we returned but I too was hoping to find some of the funky feel of the old Hawaii Five 0 show in Honolulu and I’m happy to report we found it. Even downtown Waikiki, which is mostly swallowed up with high rises, there are chickens roaming freely, a canal that seems to stop time in the middle of the city and the surf always just a stones throw away.

Old Queen Theater in Kaimuki neighborhood of Honolulu
Old Queen Theater in Kaimuki neighborhood of Honolulu

Unless I missed something the Kaimuki neighborhood seems like a great place to live. A citizens group is even trying save the Queen Theater. We had brunch in a restaurant near the Local General Store and walked around enough to get a feel for the place. It was raining in the mountains on the day we were there and depending on which way I faced the light was especially dramatic.

Local General Store in Kaimuki neighborhood of Honolulu
Local General Store in Kaimuki neighborhood of Honolulu

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More Mache

Concrete wall in downtown Los Angeles
Concrete wall in downtown Los Angeles

We have more mache than we can eat. Our green salads of late have been all mache with a few sweet pepper slices for color and texture. The lettuce went to seed last year, survived the winter, recently shot up and is now going to seed again. I would give some to the neighbors but I’m afraid they would be wary of the gangliness of the shoots and white flower tops.

I told the receptionist at our doctor that I really liked the music that was playing in the waiting room. The kind of easy going jazz, never pushy or wanky, and definitely not “smooth jazz.” John Coltrane’s “Say It (Over and Over Again)” never sounded better.

Kyle Buchanan’s interview with David Cronenberg started with this paragraph. “In 2017, during the funeral of his wife and longtime collaborator Carolyn Zeifman, the director David Cronenberg found himself struck by an unusual impulse: As the coffin holding her dead body was lowered into the ground, he wanted more than anything to get into that box with her.”

That idea made us want to see his new movie. They are always risky but this one did not live up to the promise of that idea. “The Shrouds” got way bogged down, the lead character got more unlikable as the movie went on and the whole concept fizzled with complicated Russian and Chinese interference.

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Homecoming

Magnolias in Durand Eastman Park
Magnolias in Durand Eastman Park

We were not sure if we would be up for going out on our first day back so we waited til we were boarding the plane in LA to buy tickets to Tony Brown’s show at Hochstein. At that point the tickets to Branford Marsalis were half price. Marsalis has been playing with the same band for a few years now and they show it. Not by being tight so much as in their willingness to move as a unit toward new vistas. They reached for it in the very first song surprising us, but we are not that familiar with him. By the third song they were taking their ties off. The drummer was a force of nature but just as comfortable playing like Denardo Coleman when doing an Ornette song. They brought the house down with Keith Jarrett’s ”Long as You Know You’re Living Yours” and the bass player stepped aside at the encore to let the Eastman’s Jeff Campbell play on Monk’s “Epistrophy.” So glad we went.

The lettuce, arugula and spinach we planted before leaving is all up. The Mache lettuce, that surprised us by coming back after winter, was about ten inches tall when we got back. We were only gone twelve days! I picked a huge bag for the next few dinners and we brought our pepper plants home from our neighbors where they were sitting in the window while we were gone.

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Rembrandt Laughing

“Rembrandt Laughing” at Getty Museum in LA
“Rembrandt Laughing” at Getty Museum in LA

There is a reason Ed Ruscha photographed Every Building on the Sunset Strip in 1966. It was already an iconic slice of California fantasy. Our Uber driver was just finishing his shift this morning as we spotted one attraction after the other. He told us “the billboards (mostly promoting shows we’ve never heard of) really pop at night.” He dropped us off at Ameba a half hour before they opened so we walked the star-studded sidewalks on Hollywood Boulevard and found a coffee shop next to yet another Scientology building. Kim Carnes’ “Betty Davis Eyes” was playing on the sound system.

Gene Autry has more than one star on the sidewalk. The store was mobbed by the time we got back there. Peggi and I found two boxes of used jazz 45s and each went through a box. I found it interesting that the smaller San Francisco store had about three times as many. The clerk, who had family in Rochester, told us they had a listening station up until Covid and they never brought it back so we bought a short stack on good faith. 

Peggi’s sister made reservations at the Getty and we drove over there in the afternoon. We started with the Gustave Caillebotte show, mostly stunning, large Impressionist paintings of his friends with a few awkward clunkers. And then the three Rembrandt’s in the permanent collection that are seared in my memory from previous visits. I find it especially reassuring that Rembrandt is still laughing in this 1628 self-portrait. Only he has/had the ability to capture a human being for all time.

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Saint Alice

Alice Coltrane “Monument Eternal” at Hammer Museum Los Angeles
Alice Coltrane “Monument Eternal” at Hammer Museum Los Angeles

We only had three things on our LA to do list. “Monument Eternal” at Hammer Museum was at the top. The show is devoted to Alice Coltrane, who, imho, more than filled the shoes of her husband when he died so young. With four children, she mastered the harp and made some of the most beautiful music of the twentieth century.

A short documentary, made for National Education Television’s Black Journal, was my favorite part of the show. We get to hear Alice, in her own voice, describing how she chose to carry on after her John’s death, how John was a part of her and she, a part of him, both musically and spiritually. Case closed. She is a saint. I found the documentary on Criterion when got back.

Henri Matisse “Bas Relief” 1909 - 1930 in UCLA Sculpture Garden
Henri Matisse “Bas Relief” 1909 – 1930 in UCLA Sculpture Garden

We had lunch in dreamy Westwood, shopped at the open air market for fresh fruit, and then walked around UCLA’s sculpture garden which just about has one of everything (except Gaston LaChaise). I was struck by how the California light made Matisse’s four back sculptures look even better than they do in MOMA’s garden.

On the way back to Peggi’s sister’s we listened to “Alice Coltrane’s “Journey in Satchidananda” while Peggi made a movie of the neighborhood.

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Engaged Or Entwined

George Rouy Painting at Hauser Wirth, Los Angeles
George Rouy Painting at Hauser Wirth, Los Angeles

Why are the galleries so spread out in Los Angeles? Why is everything so spread out here? You can’t miss with Hauser Wirth so we started there. Representing legends like Chillida, Guston, Louise Bourgeois and Eva Hesse and living artists like Henry Taylor, even their book stores are worth (wirth) fighting the traffic for. They have galleries all over the world now and each is an experience.

In LA there were three valet parking attendants manning a curbside stand in front of the former Globe Mill complex. We found street parking and went inside to the big, open air courtyard. Birds were singing above us as we chatted with the gardener while he trimmed an arugula patch. He told us they grow the greens for their restaurant, Manuela’s, which was just behind us.

British artist George Rouy was showing new work in the front gallery. His paintings remind me of a watery Francis Bacon, nowhere near as sculptural, but almost as intriguing. He clusters figures that appear engaged or entwined with one another but you can’t quite make out what they are up to. And their bodies are not fully shown.

In the rear galley space we found David Hammons’ installation, “Concerto in Black and Blue,” big empty, unlit rooms that we explored with tiny blue flashlights. It was a bit like the tunnel at a carnival. The shadows were interesting and there was just enough visual information to find the exits of each room. Maybe if there were more people and an dj inside (like the video) it would have been more engaging.

Their website says Manuela’s “is illuminated and animated by specially commissioned works from artists Paul McCarthy, Mark Bradford and Raymond Pettibon.” We missed those but found a mural by Mary Heilmann and we had lunch while sitting under a beautiful Henry Taylor painting. On the way out we asked if there were other galleries nearby and they told us the next few were about a mile away.

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The Other Side

Waimanalo Beach
Waimanalo Beach

Was it Waiahole that means, “to nourish with food, to nourish with love.” I’ve already forgotten. In two and half years Matthew has absorbed enough of Hawaiian culture, the history, the customs, and even bits of the native tongue, to be the perfect guide. And without exception the locals were disarmingly warm and friendly. Aloha is real.

We walked through the Royal Hawaiian, now surrounded by high rises, and out to the ocean. We took a group photo in front of the Don Hoh statue. Peggi sang “Hookilah” for us, one of her mom’s favorite songs. For my birthday we had oysters and French fries in the Sky Bar at sunset. Well, Matthew had the oysters. Peggi and I were a little squeamish.

In the morning, after coffee at Duke’s Place, Peggi and I walked along the canal that cuts through Waikiki. We walked one way the the first day and the other the next, covering the length and seeing quite a bit of the beautiful city.

Ala Wai Canal
Ala Wai Canal

We drove along the coast to the windward side of the island where we played in the surf, probably got too much sun, ate avocado sandwiches and drank lime seltzer. The following day we drove over the mountains and through a tunnel to the other side. Here in an isolated cove we sat under a rainbow umbrella, ate ahi poke and pickled onions that we purchased from a nearby shop. I bought a truckers hat in pink and orange that reads “Lei’d.” Peggi was telling Matthew and Louise about the snorkling sunburn I got in Cartagena. I tried to call up the photo but discovered we were off grid. 

After dinner on our last night the four of us had a drink at the outdoor lounge in our hotel’s courtyard. The bartender recommended a local rum, something that tasted like scotch. We hatched a plan for the next visit. We’ll stay at Louise and Matthew’s place and they will stay at our place, the White Sands Hotel, a block away.

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