Too Many Creeps

Sun glasses on the back of someone's head in New York airport
Sun glasses on the back of someone’s head in New York airport

I hate everything about airports, the security, the expensive water, the waiting and mostly, the people. No one is at their best in this situation but these places seem to attract creeps. This guy was sitting behind me and I snuck a few photos of the back of his head.

Spain had possession in the seventy percent range for most of yesterday’s Euro Cup match with the Czech Republic and yet they couldn’t get through the final third to the net until the final minutes. Most of the match was played in that zone, lateral passes that were beautifully executed, back and forth until Iniesta poked one through. Some players are smarter than others. They are always in the right place even when they don’t have the ball and they always know where everyone else is when they do get the ball. Iniesta is brilliant at this and a joy to watch.

My father was scheduled to do a repeat of his presentation on Edmunds Woods on Saturday afternoon. The Brighton town historian filled in for him and she talked over my father’s slideshow. It was a small crowd that gathered in the park shelter next to the woods but it was a giant reminder of my father’s former presence. He had mapped the wildflowers, the trees and the wildlife of the this tiny bit of remaining old growth woods. He began calling it “Edmunds Woods” after the family that worked the near farm and we hear the town is planning to officially designate it so.

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We Are The Champions

Real Madrid Champions League T-shirts
Real Madrid Champions League T-shirts

We watched three Euro Cup soccer games yesterday, an activity just my speed with only one working leg. We watched Switzerland and Wales win and then the upset, Russia over England. And then we headed out to the stadium to watch the WNY Flash play Alex Morgan’s team, the Orlando Pride. Morgan hardly got the ball and when she did she was shut down by the Flash’s Hinkle/Eddy/Erceg/Dahlkemper superb back line.

I was really worried when I saw that D’Angelo, our first string goalie (as well as Canada’s national team goalie), was injured but the Flash scored early and held on for the 90 to move into first place in the NWSL. It is so much fun to watch this team get better and better as we get to know them. The US Women have the best team in the world and our city has the best team in the league. It was even fun watching Orlando, the newest team in the league. They have Spencer, Edmonds, Edwards and even Morgan, who all previously played for the Flash.

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Oasis

Fruit tree wrapped for protection in Mallorca Spain
Fruit tree wrapped for protection in Mallorca Spain

I hadn’t had an IPA in a while so I ordered one when sat down in the Uptown Brasserie at JFK but they were out of the Goose Island so I went with a Stella Artois, something that tasted exactly like the Spanish beers we had been drinking for the last few weeks. We sat near the window and had an ocean view. They were playing jazz on the sound system, Chet Baker, Duke Ellington and piano standards. We found an oasis on our way back to Rochester.

Back home we were stunned by how green everything was. Not just green but lush and overgrown. Pink Rhododendrons in full bloom. And it’s now impossible to see our neighbors through the backyard trees. If I could walk like a normal person I would be out in the woods with my tick-guard on.

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International Thump

Fruit tree wrapped for protection in Mallorca Spain
Fruit tree wrapped for protection in Mallorca Spain

We are going to have see if we can get the “Vicious” radio station that our rental car was tuned to when we picked it up at the Majorca airport. We never changed the channel the whole week and although I think of it as club music, it suited the windy mountain roads with hairpin turns, the autopistas and dead end, dirt beach roads perfectly. Thump, thump, thump. One song meshes with the next.

In sync with the thump we tracked down one of Mallorca’s top ten beaches, a place that was described as quiet and beautiful with a restaurant. We parked in the town of Deiea and walked about an hour on a footpath that included all sorts of scenic vistas and diversions. Donkeys, persimmon trees, olive groves, religious shrines and eventually a cove of turquoise water. We headed straight to the outdoor patio and ordered Pimientos Del Padrón, Tortilla Española, Pulpo a la Gallega, Escalivada (eggplant) con Pimientos y cuatro cervezas.

Another day, another beach. This one with a fish shack/bar that was cranking “Vicious” nonstop the whole time we were there. We sat in the shade and watched people dance in the sun. And I must say, I am enjoying the secondhand smoke everywhere we go. They still sell Ducados in the cigarette machines but we haven’t smelled the black tabac anywhere. Those folks may have all left us.

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Stopping Time

Cove on the island of Mallorca in Spain
Cove on the island of Mallorca in Spain

We met our friends, Jeff and Mary Kaye, in Mallorca. They flew from Toronto, through Frankfort, and arrived with a bottle of Duty Free champagne. We quickly stopped following Donald Trump stories and and even checking email. The last email of any import was from our neighbors back in Rochester. They informed us that our spinach had grown huge and was already bolting so they ate it for us.

Here we hiked and explored swimming spots for the last few days and watched an endless stream of ciclistas working their way up the mountain where we had rented a house. Jeff got the bug and we found a Ride Mallorca shop where we dropped him off so he could rent a bike. Mary Kaye, Peggi and I walked to this small cove where we swam and studied the multicolored rocks.

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Couple On A Beach

Josep de Togores. Couple à la plage (Couple on the Beach), 1922. Painting. Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía Collection, Madrid
Josep de Togores. Couple à la plage (Couple on the Beach), 1922. Painting. Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía Collection, Madrid

Maybe we’ll go to an island for a few days. Madrid offers one hour flights to the Balearic Islands. We could beat the high season, just barely. We’ll have to make this happen.

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Cultura

Lobby in the Fundacion Telephonica in Madrid, Spain
Lobby in the Fundacion Telephonica in Madrid, Spain

Last night we had a drink in a bar/restaurant where Cervantes sat and wrote. The place has half a millennia of history. This morning we walked around the convent where they recently discovered Cervantes’ remains. There is so much to see in Madrid, we like to just get out there and wander. It helps that the Spanish government continues to fund first class art shows. We picked up a Fundación Cultura guide on our first day here and we tracked down shows with that.

A Vivian Meyer show opens tomorrow but we won’t be here. Yesterday we saw the same Joaquín Torres García show we had seen at MoMA a year ago. Today we walked to the Museo Del Romanticismo where the great Czech photographer, Viroslav Tichy, has a show that opens on June 3. We were two days early for that so I’ll have to satisfy myself with with Google image searches.

We found a funky, relaxed part of the city near the Museo, maybe due to the nearby colleges, and we asked the museum workers for a recommendation for dinner. We got with the program from the onset here and have been enjoying our main meal at midday. We sat on a park bench in Plaza de España in front of the central statue of Cervantes with Sancho Panza and Don Quijote and Peggi pointed out that we were right across from the sight of Goya’s “3rd of May,” the masterpiece we had seen a few days before.

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On The Wane In Spain

Juice bar in Madrid, Spain
Juice bar in Madrid, Spain

Last night while wandering around, a most enjoyable activity and one that local couples, especially ones in our age bracket, appear to be doing in large numbers, we spotted some religious stores on Calle de la Paz. We made a note to check them out in the morning in hopes of adding a few gems to my holy card collection. This one place, “Santarrufina,” looked especially promising. The ornate sign above the door read “Compañia Española de Artículous Religiosos” and the year “1887” was written in an oval at both ends.

This morning we learned the store catered directly to churches with life sized crucifixes and chalices and priestly garments and incense burners and whole sets of the fourteen stations of the cross to choose from. We asked if they carried holy cards and they said no. A shop across the street from them had statues of Pope Francis and the Virgin in its windows and plenty of holy cards on a spinning rack inside but they were smaller than the standard size and more garishly printed with a goofy raised gold seal in the bottom corner. They had hundreds of saints but some of them were suspect. I bought a few of those, “Yemanya” and “Santísima Muerte.” Most of their goods were related to Catholicism but they also carried crystals. There was a giant one in the corner. And they had a section devoted to Buddha, a rack of essential oils and candles shaped like penises.

Catholicism is on the wane in Spain.

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Civilization

Tops of buildings in Madrid, Spain
Tops of buildings in Madrid, Spain

We bought fruit last night for the room and we started with that this morning, bananas, a mystery fruit (cross between a peach and an apricot?) and some dried figs and prunes. We were able to get up a little earlier and we were on the streets at eleven. We stopped for coffee on Geronimo in the Plaza de Canalejas across from the brand new Four Seasons hotel (the building they are gutting after leaving the centuries old facade standing). Cafe Del Príncipe had a desayuno especial that included a small glass of fresh squeezed orange juice and Tortilla Española with pan and coffee. We bought a postcard for my mom and walked into Peurta del Sol by the Apple Store to Vodaphone where we got SIM cards for the phone and iPad. The guard in the store suggested we go to the basement of Corte Inglés to mail the postcard so we did that and then stumbled on the “Uno de 50” section in the store. Peggi took some photos for my sister, Ann, who sells this funky Spanish line of handmade jewelry at Parkleigh in Rochester.

We walked by a Fundación art exhibition co-sponsored by MoMA but it was closed Monday. Peggi read about a nice place to eat up there and we happened to walk by it so had their Menu del Día. “Red de Pescado,” catch of the day with shrimp with the heads on. I had a Country Salad and Peggi had Gazpacho.

We walked over to Calle de Alcalá 13 where a Fundación show with Goya in it was but they were closed too. So we decided to go back there tomorrow. We put six point three miles on our Moves app and I did it all on crutches. I have a new found comradery with other handicapped people on the street. We check out each other’s gear.

It doesn’t get dark here until ten. We could set the clocks this way in the US. We walked through the Plaza Mayor and over to the Mercado de San Miguel where we had some olives, some cheese and dry Vermouth from a tap. We split the Vermouth, it was served over ice and cost one and one half Euros. We walked around some more, found a street with some religious shops on it, Calle de la Paz. We plan to go over there tomorrow to look for holy cards. We stopped in Plaza de Angel at the place that has live jazz and we had drink at an outdoor table. We have finally adjusted to the time zone change.

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Francisco José de Goya y Lucientes

The Famil of Charles IV by Francisco Goya at the Prado in Madrid, Spain
The Famil of Charles IV by Francisco Goya at the Prado in Madrid, Spain

El Prado is magnificent. But it is too big. There are too many paintings here. It is a struggle to preserve your visual energy for the great stuff and not wear yourself out on the mediocre. Not even every Goya is great but most are.

We tracked down our favorites, the sculptural Rogier van der Weyden’s “Descent from the Cross”, Durer’s “Adam And Eve”, Quinten Massys’ “Christ Presented to the People” and Raphael’s “Portrait of a Cardinal.” All these were primers for Zurbaran, Velázquez, El Greco and finally Goya’s “3rd of May,” his giant portrait of the royal family (shown above) and his incredible “Pinturas Negras.” The best Goyas are by no means stuck in time. They are so full of life, they make you laugh. They remain contemporary because no one else can paint like him.

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Divided City

Rocking horse in front of small store in Madrid
Rocking horse in front of small store in Madrid

Our map app delivers surprising results in Madrid. When we plot routes between places the times via “auto” are longer than those via “walk.” Madrid, in the old part, is that kind of city.

The streets of Madrid were empty last night. The bars were full. Atlético was playing Real in the European club championship. We sided with Atlético but the match could not be settled in overtime and went to Real Madrid with penalty kicks. Ronaldo struck the decisive blow and the streets erupted.

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Crown Of Thorns

A crown of thorns made with pencils by Bernardi Roig, an artist from Palma de Mallorca
A crown of thorns made with pencils by Bernardi Roig, an artist from Palma de Mallorca

We flew through cotton candy-like clouds before landing in Madrid at 8 AM. The guy in front of us on the plane was reading “The Promise of a Pencil.” I made a note to look that up. We had forgotten that Peggi requested a wheelchair at the airport gate and then we heard a man say my name the way a Spaniard would say my name. I was wheeled to a small bus that cruised around the back of the airport and dropped us off on the street where we waited for a bus (5 E) that took us to Cibeles in the center of the old city.

From there we walked to our hotel near Plaza Santa Ana and they let us in early. We slept for a few hours and headed back out for some café con leche and Tortilla Española. They served the coffee in small glasses, almost too hot hang onto. We had seen signs for an art show, one of those Fundación government sponsored things, when we got off the bus so we hobbled back down to Cibeles. On the any we found another, free, government sponsored, art show by Bernardi Roig, an artist from Palma de Mallorca. The show near Cibeles was a real slice of Spanish culture by José Suarez, a Spanish photographer who went into exile during the Spanish Civil War.

We kept looking up at the Círculo de Bellas Artes building and wondering why no one was up there. When we got up there it was actually more crowded than we had ever seen it and we quickly realized why it didn’t look crowded from the street. They had installed a stainless steel railing around the entire perimeter so you could not possibly get out to the edge. Although only six stories up you can see right out beyond the city, to the mountains and into the country and hillsides where Madrileños celebrated the feast of San Isidro, the scene Goya painted so vividly. And you get a great view of the black domed Metropolis building that is featured in the Grand Vía production credits of Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul.

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Pile Of Rubble Behind

Pile of rubble in the filled in Inner Loop
Pile of rubble in the filled in Inner Loop

Our planned trip was in doubt for a bit with my injury but I have decided to move forward with what is now a pilgrimage to Madrid. I will hobble into the city and leave my crutches there just as the faithful do across the border in Lourdes, France.

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Name Dropping

Chuck Close at his gallery show in Chelsea 2002
Chuck Close at his gallery show in Chelsea 2002

I guess there is some sort of logical progression in the artists I drift toward over the years. Andy Warhol, Alex Katz, Alice Neel, Rodin, Kirchner, Robert Irwin, John Baldessari, Matisse and Philip Guston (from the moment I laid eyes on him.)

I liked Chuck Close for a while and ran into him at one of his shows in Chelsea. I took his photo and still intend to paint a portrait of him.

A few posts back I mentioned a Baldesarri project. I came across the full entry while soaking my leg last night and have reprinted it here.

From “More Than You Wanted To Know About John Baldessari”
A written piece called, “The Backs of All the Trucks Passed While Driving from Los Angeles to Santa Barbara, Calif., Sunday Jan 20”

“I was intrigued by how much the backs of trucks resembled paintings I had done – basically a rectangle broken up into an infinite variety of possibilities, that is, variety with a standard shape in dialog with the edge. My painting investigation was merging with my work in photography.”

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Tether

Tables set for an event at Art Gallery of Ontario
Tables set for an event at Art Gallery of Ontario

I consider myself one of the luckiest people in the world, to be in a band with Peggi Fournier. Over and over again, she pulls beautiful melodies from the thin air, marvelous stuff that you could hang your hat on. To my ears she is a rare breed.

The song below is from last week. I only brought two drums to the gig as my right foot is out of commission for a month or so. A young couple there, both of them nurses, told us they saw Margaret Explosion on their first date and they came back tonight because they both had off.

Chuck Cuminale, aka Colorblind James, was born the 23rd, the day before Bob Dylan’s birthday, and he was a lifelong fan which is not to say he loved everything Bob did. Far from it. I went to high school with Chuck. He always took music seriously and loved to share his opinion. I haven’t had a good argument with a friend about music since he died.

He wrote the following when he was working for City Newspaper. “The Margaret Explosion is not screaming for your attention. At its weekly Friday night happy hour gig at the Bug Jar, the band sets up in the darkest corner of the club. It makes no announcements or introductions. The musicians don’t take flashy solos, or make grandiose musical statements. What they do, from their dark corner, is provide the crowd with a cool, knowing, improvised soundtrack for its early evening activities. They cast a bohemian glow over the room, and, like magic, people look more interesting, conversations become more engaging, and Rochester seems like a better, hipper place to be.”

Margaret Explosion plays one more Wednesday at the Little Theatre and then we’re off for the summer.

Listen to Margaret Explosion – Tether
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Not Really

White and yellow wildflowers in Durand Eastman Park
White and yellow wildflowers in Durand Eastman Park

When I hobbled into the the Friendly Home this morning Brandon was reading the newspaper aloud in the newly remodeled sun room, an article about Ithaca using sheep to mow their Cemetery grounds. He had about ten people seated in a circle around him, all in wheelchairs. “What time did the sun come up this morning?” The other Mary guessed 5:30 and was off by only nine minutes. He read each person’s horoscope but when he asked my mom if she wanted to hear hers she said, “Not really.”

When the important news was digested he turned on a Pandora oldies station on his phone and connected it to a portable speaker. It was basketball time. He stood in the middle off the circle and bounced the ball back and forth with each of the residents to songs like “Chattanooga Choo Choo.”

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New Leaves

Young oak leaves in trees out front
Young oak leaves in trees out front

Jill Ellis, the women’s national team coach, was in the house last night. She was introduced before the game and then we spotted her at halftime hanging over the railing in front of her box seat while talking to Abby Wambach’s parents (who just happened to be sitting next to us.) She’s here to study the Flash players, Jaedene Hinkle and Sam Mewis in particular. She’ll be gong to the Olympics in Rio with only eighteen players (there were 21 on last year’s World Cup roster). Of course, she could still be evaluating Sky Blue’s Christie Rampone and Kelley O’Hara. But the way Hinkle played last night I wouldn’t be surprised if Ellis left town with Hinkle in the back seat.

We got to the game early, as we usually do,to watch the warm-ups from behind the goal. You have to keep your eye on the ball because you can get clobbered back there. And I was already injured. I was hoping to get a chance to talk to the Flash trainer about my injury. I’d ask him what he would do to get a player back on the pitch asap after an injury like mine. But that was only a pipe dream.

I was soaking my leg in the tub this afternoon, reading my John Baldessari book, and the room was getting all steamed up. I gave up reading and just relaxed but in a few minutes our smoke alarm went off, loud as hell. So I hobbled over to the damn thing and pulled the battery out. Why would a smoke alarm go off with steam?

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Journey Inward

Fallen Magnolia flower petals in Durand Eastman Park, Rochester, New York
Fallen Magnolia flower petals in Durand Eastman Park, Rochester, New York

When Josef Albers left the Weimer Bauhaus in Germany to teach at the Black Mountain School in North Carolina he was asked what he planned to teach. He responded, “To make open the eyes.” My limited mobility issues had me thinking about this and I can’t think of a better time to work on it. Instead of walks in the woods I’ve been sitting on the couch with an endless stream of my photos on the tv. A few big doors are closed but others are opening.

It is a toss-up as to whether the dictation tool on my iPad is any better than my typing skills. Of course, I don’t really know if it is the tool’s listening skills or my poor diction that causes so many errors. In my down time I’ve been transcribing the handwritten journals from our previous nine trips to Spain. Peggi and I take turns at the end of each day recording what we did that day. We’ll take short notes during the day with the name of a menu item or a painting we saw but we collect our thoughts at the end of the day in the form a short journal entry. The last few trips were entered on an iPad. I’m transcribing a handwritten entry now from 1998, the year we spent a week in Granada following Semana Santa processions, and I just spoke “down the street to the Monestario de San Geronimo.” My iPad heard “down the street to the monastery all day sun hey Ronnie mall.”

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Clouds

Two clouds over Rochester, NY
Two clouds over Rochester, NY

I remember this sensation. I used to do this all the time back in the very early fifties. And then I pulled myself up on a chair or something and I never went back to crawling. My knees are pretty good but they’re getting sore. I might have to pick up some knee pads at Home Depot unless I can manage to walk again.

“Stare. It is the way to educate your eye, and more. Stare; pry; listen; eavesdrop. Die knowing something. You are not here long.” – Walker Evans

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288-0880

Magnolia collection sign with Magnolias in full bloom in Durand Eastman ParkDurand
Magnolia collection sign with Magnolias in full bloom in Durand Eastman ParkDurand

When we started our business we called the phone company to ask for a business line and we asked if they had any easy to remember numbers. They gave us 288-0880 and I always felt like it was lucky. I liked the way the numbers lined up on a push button phone. And I liked the way 4 and “D,” the fourth letter of the alphabet, seemed numerically connected to 288.

When a new Pizza Hut opened nearby they printed our number on refrigerator magnets. We got free shitty pizza for a bit. And we would get calls for JAy-Ve Tackle all the time just because the people who shop there can’t distinguish between 6s and 8s. Most of the calls we get these days are cold calls from India.

When we were growing up, about ten blocks east of where the 4D Advertising office was we had a 288 number as well. That was when people referred to those exchanges with words or two letter abbreviations. 288 was Butler 8 and the Butler was abbreviated as BU. People could tell what part of the city you were from by your exchange. I think our number back then was BU 8-3041.

4D has closed shop so I called the phone company today to pull the plug on that number. They said it would be disconnected at midnight tonight. I just called it thinking I wouLd leave one last message on our answering machine but it was already dead.

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